At San Luis Obispo High School, surfing is a subculture known to a select few who are privileged to live near the coast. For them, a great day is one when they can get away to catch a wave and reconnect with the power of the ocean. The appeal may not be obvious, but for a surfer it is a sublime combination of opposites – solitude and comradery, quiet waiting and moments of exhilaration.
Expressions set out to interview some of these students and ask about their surfing experiences.
Expressions: How long have you been surfing?
Junior Joshua McRoberts: The summer I turned 12, that’s when I got my first board.
Junior Lucas Waggoner: I’ve only been surfing for about a year.
Expressions: Where do you normally surf?
McRoberts: at Yerba Buena in Morro Bay.
Waggoner: Yerba Buena
Expressions: What’s your style of surfing?
McRoberts: I really like the longboard because you have more time to enjoy the wave, you’re able to be freer with your movements and it’s way smoother.
Waggoner: I try to go for like a crappy surfer style, just someone who genuinely sucks at surfing and probably should never have pursued it.
Expressions: How has surfing helped you during the COVID-19 pandemic
McRoberts: It’s very relaxing knowing there’s something I can still do that can’t be affected by the pandemic. Even if the beach closes I know I can still get in the water.
Waggoner: It’s made this whole quarantine thing way less boring and has allowed me to stay healthy
Expressions: Any advice for people who want to pick up surfing?
McRoberts: Go with a buddy and make sure to take in your surroundings, not many people get to enjoy the ocean.
Waggoner: Spend as much time as you can in the water.